| The Newbie Guide to Enduros |
If you are just starting to race enduros, the
timekeeping is probably as baffling as
anything you've ever encountered. What I
hope to do here is to make it a little less
mysterious.
The first thing you need to know is what
"key time" is and how to use it. Key time is
simply the master clock used to set all the
other clocks in an enduro. You should set
your watch, or whatever time keeping
device you use, to key time - your minute
number. In other words, if you're on row
30, you should set your watch 30 minutes
earlier than the key time. The reason for
doing this is so your watch will read 8:00:00
when they drop the green flag for your row
(assuming 8 o-clock is the start time).
Early, late and on time
If you are early to a check, you obtain 2
points for the first minute early, 5(!) points
for each minute after that. In
other words, if you're one minute early, you
get two points. Two minutes early = 7
points, three minutes early, 12
points. Being early, aka burning a check,
is bad juju! If you are late, you obtain one
point per minute late. If you
are on time, or "on your minute", 0 points
are awarded. Now, to know where the
checks are, you need to know
where they can't be. Checks can't be in
the 3 miles after a check, or the 2 miles
before a known check, like a gas
stop, or known finish. When you go
timekeeping is probably as baffling as
anything you've ever encountered. What I
hope to do here is to make it a little less
mysterious.
The first thing you need to know is what
"key time" is and how to use it. Key time is
simply the master clock used to set all the
other clocks in an enduro. You should set
your watch, or whatever time keeping
device you use, to key time - your minute
number. In other words, if you're on row
30, you should set your watch 30 minutes
earlier than the key time. The reason for
doing this is so your watch will read 8:00:00
when they drop the green flag for your row
(assuming 8 o-clock is the start time).
Early, late and on time
If you are early to a check, you obtain 2
points for the first minute early, 5(!) points
for each minute after that. In
other words, if you're one minute early, you
get two points. Two minutes early = 7
points, three minutes early, 12
points. Being early, aka burning a check,
is bad juju! If you are late, you obtain one
point per minute late. If you
are on time, or "on your minute", 0 points
are awarded. Now, to know where the
checks are, you need to know
where they can't be. Checks can't be in
the 3 miles after a check, or the 2 miles
before a known check, like a gas
stop, or known finish. When you go
| Thanks Ken Murphy! |
through a check, make a mental note of the mileage, which is posted in the check, and rage for the next three miles.
This is known as "three for free". There are some "gotchas", but I'll cover those later. Now that you know where they
can't be, how do you know where they can be? That's easy as well, if you break it down. The rules say that a check
must be on an even tenth AND an even minute. What does this mean exactly? An even tenth is defined as .20, or .50,
or .30, not .32 or .48. An even minute means the check must occur at the top of the minute, it can't be at 1:37seconds
down the trail. That being said, let's continue: If you are in a car, and are traveling 60 mph, you're traveling at 1 mile
per minute. That would be an even tenth (.0) and an even minute, right? Now, if you're traveling 30 mph, you're going
.5 miles per minute so, that's an even tenth(.5)AND an even minute. Now, what other speed averages will you likely see
at an event? If you cover all the tenths, you see:
Avg miles/minute
18 mph .3
24 .4
30 .5
Ok, now you know where the checks can and can't be. Resets, free time, etc. A reset is simply a device used by
the promoter to stop time and allow you to get back on schedule. If you have are set from 5.0 to 7.4 and the speed
average is 24 mph, then you move your odometer ahead 2.4 miles at the 5.0 mile marker. What this amounts to is
an 6 minute rest period.(7.4-5.0/.4 = 6 minutes) The clock keeps running, but you've just been teleported 2.4 miles
ahead. Take this time to drink water, eat, catch your breath. Free time is different - the mileage remains the same,
but you just sit for however many minutes.
Now you know where the checks can and can't be, right? Now you need to know the difference between the check
types. Red & white flags at a check are "secret" checks. As long as you're on your minutes, no problem. Green &
white flags are an "emergency" or tiebreaker check. You will be timed down to the second in these checks. If you
are on time, try to enter the check at 30 seconds into your minute for a perfect score. If you're late, just get there as
soon as possible. Any other color flags are not timed checks! Don't be fooled. You could encounter an
Observation (OB) check, but they aren't timed. You just have to have your card marked. Since you know where the
checks are, what speed to average, how do you ever get caught? Sneaky promoters, that's how! Here are some of
the things that you'll likely see in an enduro: A "special test" is a section where the promoter knows most riders
can't average 17 mph, but the average will be set to 30. You most likely will be "checked in" at the beginning to
ensure that you don't go in early, and "checked out" at the finish. This would mean that the special test is at least
three miles in length right? So look for places in the route sheet where there is a reset, a speed change, then
another reset more than 3 miles from the previous reset. There will likely be a special test in that area, be
prepared. Some might give you a reset at the end of a special test, of length more than 3 miles. Beware, that 3
miles was your "three for free" and the next possible could be just over that next hill.
The last thing to cover, is the difference between "gas stop" and "gas available". A "gas stop" is a known check (or
control), and therefore, there cannot be a check for two miles before a gas stop. As "gas available" is NOT a known
control and there CAN be a check in the two miles before the gas. Same function, different wording. Beware.
There are many more ways that a clever promoter or race organizer can fool the rider. I don't want to try to cover
them here, that's half the fun of racing an enduro. The cat and mouse game between the organizer and rider *is*
he mental part of this sport. Learning it by experience is the most fun way. One last note, and its something I heard
when I first started racing: You'll learn more about racing enduro by WORKING ONE event, than you will by RACING
TEN. Most promoters need help anyway, so please support you local club by helping out. Enjoy.
This is known as "three for free". There are some "gotchas", but I'll cover those later. Now that you know where they
can't be, how do you know where they can be? That's easy as well, if you break it down. The rules say that a check
must be on an even tenth AND an even minute. What does this mean exactly? An even tenth is defined as .20, or .50,
or .30, not .32 or .48. An even minute means the check must occur at the top of the minute, it can't be at 1:37seconds
down the trail. That being said, let's continue: If you are in a car, and are traveling 60 mph, you're traveling at 1 mile
per minute. That would be an even tenth (.0) and an even minute, right? Now, if you're traveling 30 mph, you're going
.5 miles per minute so, that's an even tenth(.5)AND an even minute. Now, what other speed averages will you likely see
at an event? If you cover all the tenths, you see:
Avg miles/minute
18 mph .3
24 .4
30 .5
Ok, now you know where the checks can and can't be. Resets, free time, etc. A reset is simply a device used by
the promoter to stop time and allow you to get back on schedule. If you have are set from 5.0 to 7.4 and the speed
average is 24 mph, then you move your odometer ahead 2.4 miles at the 5.0 mile marker. What this amounts to is
an 6 minute rest period.(7.4-5.0/.4 = 6 minutes) The clock keeps running, but you've just been teleported 2.4 miles
ahead. Take this time to drink water, eat, catch your breath. Free time is different - the mileage remains the same,
but you just sit for however many minutes.
Now you know where the checks can and can't be, right? Now you need to know the difference between the check
types. Red & white flags at a check are "secret" checks. As long as you're on your minutes, no problem. Green &
white flags are an "emergency" or tiebreaker check. You will be timed down to the second in these checks. If you
are on time, try to enter the check at 30 seconds into your minute for a perfect score. If you're late, just get there as
soon as possible. Any other color flags are not timed checks! Don't be fooled. You could encounter an
Observation (OB) check, but they aren't timed. You just have to have your card marked. Since you know where the
checks are, what speed to average, how do you ever get caught? Sneaky promoters, that's how! Here are some of
the things that you'll likely see in an enduro: A "special test" is a section where the promoter knows most riders
can't average 17 mph, but the average will be set to 30. You most likely will be "checked in" at the beginning to
ensure that you don't go in early, and "checked out" at the finish. This would mean that the special test is at least
three miles in length right? So look for places in the route sheet where there is a reset, a speed change, then
another reset more than 3 miles from the previous reset. There will likely be a special test in that area, be
prepared. Some might give you a reset at the end of a special test, of length more than 3 miles. Beware, that 3
miles was your "three for free" and the next possible could be just over that next hill.
The last thing to cover, is the difference between "gas stop" and "gas available". A "gas stop" is a known check (or
control), and therefore, there cannot be a check for two miles before a gas stop. As "gas available" is NOT a known
control and there CAN be a check in the two miles before the gas. Same function, different wording. Beware.
There are many more ways that a clever promoter or race organizer can fool the rider. I don't want to try to cover
them here, that's half the fun of racing an enduro. The cat and mouse game between the organizer and rider *is*
he mental part of this sport. Learning it by experience is the most fun way. One last note, and its something I heard
when I first started racing: You'll learn more about racing enduro by WORKING ONE event, than you will by RACING
TEN. Most promoters need help anyway, so please support you local club by helping out. Enjoy.
Editor's note: what follows is a brief explanation of enduro rules and terminology that I borrowed (a/k/a stole)
from a guy named Ken Murphy. His descriptions below were written sometime in the late-1990s and appeared in
a dirt bike related discussion forum (probably dirtrider.net). Following Ken's comments is my own description of
enduro racing, as told from my own perspective.
from a guy named Ken Murphy. His descriptions below were written sometime in the late-1990s and appeared in
a dirt bike related discussion forum (probably dirtrider.net). Following Ken's comments is my own description of
enduro racing, as told from my own perspective.
Origins of Enduro Racing
Many years ago in a world far, far away, an
unidentified extraterrestrial life form discovered an
altogether different method of racing dirt bikes.
These creatures were less concerned with who
finished first, and more interested in how well
each competitor maintained his or her speed
throughout the race course. This type of
competition was given the name "Enduro". We
know its rules and procedures did not originate
from humans, as our inferior cognitive abilities
could not possibly have generated the necessary
algorithms, nor space-time continuum theories,
needed for enduro racing.
Ok, that may be a stretch. But whenever I've tried to
explain the enduro concept to newbies or non-
racing friends and family, I might as well have
summarized Stephen Hawking's theories on
cosmology - the reactions are the same. This
joyfully confusing form of racing has been around
for decades, which is about as long as it's taken
me to almost figure out how these things work.
The Basics
Ignorance aside, here is a summary of all I know
about timekeeping enduro racing:
The object of the game is to maintain an average
speed. Riding faster or slower than the average
speed generates penalties. Every so often, speed
averages are checked and penalties assessed
Many years ago in a world far, far away, an
unidentified extraterrestrial life form discovered an
altogether different method of racing dirt bikes.
These creatures were less concerned with who
finished first, and more interested in how well
each competitor maintained his or her speed
throughout the race course. This type of
competition was given the name "Enduro". We
know its rules and procedures did not originate
from humans, as our inferior cognitive abilities
could not possibly have generated the necessary
algorithms, nor space-time continuum theories,
needed for enduro racing.
Ok, that may be a stretch. But whenever I've tried to
explain the enduro concept to newbies or non-
racing friends and family, I might as well have
summarized Stephen Hawking's theories on
cosmology - the reactions are the same. This
joyfully confusing form of racing has been around
for decades, which is about as long as it's taken
me to almost figure out how these things work.
The Basics
Ignorance aside, here is a summary of all I know
about timekeeping enduro racing:
- The races are long.
- Something called "timekeeping" dictates
who wins the race. - There are many ways to eliminate yourself
from trophy contention without crashing,
breaking something, or getting stuck in the
mud.
The object of the game is to maintain an average
speed. Riding faster or slower than the average
speed generates penalties. Every so often, speed
averages are checked and penalties assessed
to those who fail to maintain the average. Oddly, the penalties are greater for riding faster than the speed average than they are for riding
slower than the average. That is mostly designed to prevent riders from speeding on through the course during periods when the race
promoters would like everyone to take a break (more on that will be explained later).
So how does one know if he is maintaining the proper speed average? This is where enduro rules come into play, and there are a lot of
them. The first rule is that the race starts at a designated "key time", which is usually sometime in the morning and almost always at the
top of the hour (8:00, 9:00, etc). Each minute, from that point on, a handful of riders will leave the starting line. The riders depart in the order
of the "minute" they've been assigned, which is also referred to as a "row". There are usually 4 or 5 riders assigned to each row, and those
riders will see a lot of each other throughout the day.
At the sign-up area, the club provides each rider with an assigned row number. These are usually 3-digit numbers, with the second two
digits indicating the row number. The first digit simply indicates a rider's particular number on the row. For instance, a rider assigned 225
means he is on the 25th row and is rider #2 on that row. It also means that he will begin his race 25 minutes after key time.
Route Sheet
Along with a row number, the club will provide a route sheet. This very important piece of paper identifies the starting speed average, along
with any changes to that average throughout the course. The route sheet will provide information such as mileage points of certain key
places on the course - turns, gas stops, and special "catch-up" features called a Resets. These resets are significant, because they allow
riders to get themselves back on schedule if they are running behind. And most of the time, the average enduro racer is going to be behind
schedule.
One of the more common speed averages is 24 mph, for reasons I will explain later. Most woods trails are filled with enough trees and
rocks and obstacles to keep even the fastest riders from maintaining the speed average. A reset gets a rider back on time by instantly
teleporting him to a place further down the trail. Actually, it's not quite that magical. The reset is simply a point on the route sheet that
instructs riders to move their odometers forward by a certain number of miles. In other words, the race promoters say "When you get to
mile marker X, pretend you're really at mile marker X + Y." That effectively moves you forward on the course, without taking any time to do it.
Therefore, your average speed increases, and Presto! You're back on time...that is, if you weren't already so far behind that the reset still did
not get you caught up.
Route sheets may also contain special instructions, warnings, or general information of interest to riders. Below is an example of a route
sheet from the Akeley West enduro in the great state of Minnesota, hosted by the Norsemen Motorcycle Club.
slower than the average. That is mostly designed to prevent riders from speeding on through the course during periods when the race
promoters would like everyone to take a break (more on that will be explained later).
So how does one know if he is maintaining the proper speed average? This is where enduro rules come into play, and there are a lot of
them. The first rule is that the race starts at a designated "key time", which is usually sometime in the morning and almost always at the
top of the hour (8:00, 9:00, etc). Each minute, from that point on, a handful of riders will leave the starting line. The riders depart in the order
of the "minute" they've been assigned, which is also referred to as a "row". There are usually 4 or 5 riders assigned to each row, and those
riders will see a lot of each other throughout the day.
At the sign-up area, the club provides each rider with an assigned row number. These are usually 3-digit numbers, with the second two
digits indicating the row number. The first digit simply indicates a rider's particular number on the row. For instance, a rider assigned 225
means he is on the 25th row and is rider #2 on that row. It also means that he will begin his race 25 minutes after key time.
Route Sheet
Along with a row number, the club will provide a route sheet. This very important piece of paper identifies the starting speed average, along
with any changes to that average throughout the course. The route sheet will provide information such as mileage points of certain key
places on the course - turns, gas stops, and special "catch-up" features called a Resets. These resets are significant, because they allow
riders to get themselves back on schedule if they are running behind. And most of the time, the average enduro racer is going to be behind
schedule.
One of the more common speed averages is 24 mph, for reasons I will explain later. Most woods trails are filled with enough trees and
rocks and obstacles to keep even the fastest riders from maintaining the speed average. A reset gets a rider back on time by instantly
teleporting him to a place further down the trail. Actually, it's not quite that magical. The reset is simply a point on the route sheet that
instructs riders to move their odometers forward by a certain number of miles. In other words, the race promoters say "When you get to
mile marker X, pretend you're really at mile marker X + Y." That effectively moves you forward on the course, without taking any time to do it.
Therefore, your average speed increases, and Presto! You're back on time...that is, if you weren't already so far behind that the reset still did
not get you caught up.
Route sheets may also contain special instructions, warnings, or general information of interest to riders. Below is an example of a route
sheet from the Akeley West enduro in the great state of Minnesota, hosted by the Norsemen Motorcycle Club.
| Back when I was first getting started in enduro racing, this is how I prepared for enduros. Using an Excel spreadsheet, I entered one line for every minute of the race, along with a corresponding mile marker for each minute. The idea was to have this available during the race so I could glance at the time on my watch, locate the nearest minute on the roll chart and see |
it matches up with the roll chart numbers. Using the Leadbelt Enduro as an example, at 10:01 on the watch, you're supposed to see 40.4
miles on the odometer. In practice, it's just about impossible to read the watch and the roll chart unless you're at a complete stop. The bike
just bounces too much. A better option is a digital clock like this, with larger numbers. These can be bought cheaply at Walmart. I would
tape two of these to my handlebars (a second one for backup), which helped greatly in seeing the time, but I still couldn't read the mileage
on the roll chart while I was riding - not that it really mattered, because most of the time I was usually behind schedule.
In a 24 mph average, you should be traveling 0.4 miles every minute. Enduro clubs often choose 24 mph because it's a tough speed to
maintain in the woods and the math is easier. Every 15 seconds equates to one-tenth of a mile. Riding a mile at 24 mph takes 2.5
minutes. Other common speed averages are 18 mph (0.3 miles per minute) and 30 mph (a half mile per minute), for the same
mathematical reasons.
If you're really good with quick math, you might be able to calculate these numbers in your head instantly and not need a roll chart. I believe
it was either Malcolm Smith or Dick Burleson who said in an interview that he could usually do the math in his head, which gave him an
advantage. Then enduro computers came along and did the math for the riders, so it didn't seem as challenging from then on. From
experience, I can honestly say that anyone who has the ability to mentally calculate where he should be on the course at any given time
during the race, all the while dodging trees and ruts and rocks, is more of a man than I am. And based on what Mssrs. Smith and Burleson
accomplished in enduro racing back in the day, on motorcycles far inferior to what I ride today, those two were certainly smarter guys than
I'll ever be.
For most of us, we need some help with the math, and the roll chart serves this purpose. The challenge is being able to read the
odometer, advance the roll chart holder to the correct spot in the roll chart, read the time on the watch, find the corresponding time on the
roll chart, and then figure out if you're on schedule or not. All of this has to be done while trying to avoid trail obstacles. It's basically
impossible. But that's ok, because most mortal men can't maintain a 24 mph average inside the woods. Once a woods section begins,
you're most just riding as fast as you can. The roll chart ends up being used more as a gauge for when to go (or not go) into the woods
after a reset.
The reason for this is that enduro clubs can be tricky with the route sheets. An enduro, by its nature, is really just a series of tests. These
tests are made up of challenging sections where it's often difficult, if not impossible, to maintain the required speed average. The club
challenges each rider in these sections, then places a checkpoint near the end of the section to see how close the riders came to the
speed average. At that point, most (if not all) the riders will be behind schedule, so the real contest is to ride those sections faster than
everyone else, be less late, and thus be penalized to a lesser degree. Usually a reset is placed just after the checkpoint at the end of the
test, giving most riders a nice cushion to rest and get back on schedule.
Temptation comes with these resets, however. You may find yourself well ahead of schedule. Your choice is to continue riding through the
course ahead of schedule, or rest until enough time passes to get you back on schedule. An example of this temptation comes often in
Midwest enduros, which usually contain roads linking up the various test sections. These transfer roads often appear at the end of test
sections, so usually you'll ride several miles through the woods, get scored at a check, and then come out to a road. The check would
probably be followed by a reset, which is designed to get riders back on schedule so they don't feel the need to race at Warp Factor 9 down
public roads. Most riders will cruise down the roads to the start of the next woods section, where they'll probably arrive ahead of schedule,
and wait patiently. Others will take a risk and enter the woods early, not knowing if the next checkpoint is placed just outside of view. Clubs
often put these checks just inside the woods to keep riders honest. After all, showing up early to most checkpoints comes with severe
penalties. The roll chart tells you when it's safe to enter the woods.
Scoring
Penalties are much more severe for arriving early at a checkpoint than for arriving late. For each minute you're late to a checkpoint, one
point is added to your score (the idea being that the lowest score wins). If you're one minute early to a checkpoint, 2 points are added to
your score. From there, every additional minute early adds another 5 points (per minute) to your score. So if, for example, you show up to a
checkpoint 10 minutes early, 47 points will be added to your score. If that happens, no trophy for you...you're pretty much trail riding from
there on.
Using the typical Midwest enduro as an example, you might travel down a road for a couple miles and come upon a group of riders
hanging out along the road next to arrows pointing into some woods. They're stopped because a reset put them ahead of schedule and
they don't want to risk entering the woods early. The size of the potential penalties is what makes the riders pause - it keeps them honest.
Checkpoints
At a typical enduro, you'll usually see 4 types of checkpoints:
Here is where it's very helpful to read and understand the AMA enduro rule book, for there are specific instances where these checks can
and can't be used. For example, a timed check (i.e. #2 and #3 above) has to be placed on an even tenth of a mile. Following a Start Control
or timed check, the next timed checkpoint has to be at least 3 miles further down the trail.
miles on the odometer. In practice, it's just about impossible to read the watch and the roll chart unless you're at a complete stop. The bike
just bounces too much. A better option is a digital clock like this, with larger numbers. These can be bought cheaply at Walmart. I would
tape two of these to my handlebars (a second one for backup), which helped greatly in seeing the time, but I still couldn't read the mileage
on the roll chart while I was riding - not that it really mattered, because most of the time I was usually behind schedule.
In a 24 mph average, you should be traveling 0.4 miles every minute. Enduro clubs often choose 24 mph because it's a tough speed to
maintain in the woods and the math is easier. Every 15 seconds equates to one-tenth of a mile. Riding a mile at 24 mph takes 2.5
minutes. Other common speed averages are 18 mph (0.3 miles per minute) and 30 mph (a half mile per minute), for the same
mathematical reasons.
If you're really good with quick math, you might be able to calculate these numbers in your head instantly and not need a roll chart. I believe
it was either Malcolm Smith or Dick Burleson who said in an interview that he could usually do the math in his head, which gave him an
advantage. Then enduro computers came along and did the math for the riders, so it didn't seem as challenging from then on. From
experience, I can honestly say that anyone who has the ability to mentally calculate where he should be on the course at any given time
during the race, all the while dodging trees and ruts and rocks, is more of a man than I am. And based on what Mssrs. Smith and Burleson
accomplished in enduro racing back in the day, on motorcycles far inferior to what I ride today, those two were certainly smarter guys than
I'll ever be.
For most of us, we need some help with the math, and the roll chart serves this purpose. The challenge is being able to read the
odometer, advance the roll chart holder to the correct spot in the roll chart, read the time on the watch, find the corresponding time on the
roll chart, and then figure out if you're on schedule or not. All of this has to be done while trying to avoid trail obstacles. It's basically
impossible. But that's ok, because most mortal men can't maintain a 24 mph average inside the woods. Once a woods section begins,
you're most just riding as fast as you can. The roll chart ends up being used more as a gauge for when to go (or not go) into the woods
after a reset.
The reason for this is that enduro clubs can be tricky with the route sheets. An enduro, by its nature, is really just a series of tests. These
tests are made up of challenging sections where it's often difficult, if not impossible, to maintain the required speed average. The club
challenges each rider in these sections, then places a checkpoint near the end of the section to see how close the riders came to the
speed average. At that point, most (if not all) the riders will be behind schedule, so the real contest is to ride those sections faster than
everyone else, be less late, and thus be penalized to a lesser degree. Usually a reset is placed just after the checkpoint at the end of the
test, giving most riders a nice cushion to rest and get back on schedule.
Temptation comes with these resets, however. You may find yourself well ahead of schedule. Your choice is to continue riding through the
course ahead of schedule, or rest until enough time passes to get you back on schedule. An example of this temptation comes often in
Midwest enduros, which usually contain roads linking up the various test sections. These transfer roads often appear at the end of test
sections, so usually you'll ride several miles through the woods, get scored at a check, and then come out to a road. The check would
probably be followed by a reset, which is designed to get riders back on schedule so they don't feel the need to race at Warp Factor 9 down
public roads. Most riders will cruise down the roads to the start of the next woods section, where they'll probably arrive ahead of schedule,
and wait patiently. Others will take a risk and enter the woods early, not knowing if the next checkpoint is placed just outside of view. Clubs
often put these checks just inside the woods to keep riders honest. After all, showing up early to most checkpoints comes with severe
penalties. The roll chart tells you when it's safe to enter the woods.
Scoring
Penalties are much more severe for arriving early at a checkpoint than for arriving late. For each minute you're late to a checkpoint, one
point is added to your score (the idea being that the lowest score wins). If you're one minute early to a checkpoint, 2 points are added to
your score. From there, every additional minute early adds another 5 points (per minute) to your score. So if, for example, you show up to a
checkpoint 10 minutes early, 47 points will be added to your score. If that happens, no trophy for you...you're pretty much trail riding from
there on.
Using the typical Midwest enduro as an example, you might travel down a road for a couple miles and come upon a group of riders
hanging out along the road next to arrows pointing into some woods. They're stopped because a reset put them ahead of schedule and
they don't want to risk entering the woods early. The size of the potential penalties is what makes the riders pause - it keeps them honest.
Checkpoints
At a typical enduro, you'll usually see 4 types of checkpoints:
- Start Control: This is a designated starting or release point. Most timekeeper enduros will have just one of these at the beginning of
the race. The "qualifier" style enduros will have several, because those events are a series of special tests where you're "released"
at various points to complete the tests. You can show up early at a Start Control without penalty. Start Control check are marked with
a banner containing the letters "ST". - Secret Check: This is, as the name implies, a check that is "secret", meaning you won't know where it's located (although once you
get proficient at interpreting route sheets, you can probably guess). These checkpoints are marked with a banner that looks like
this. Secret checks are timed to the minute. There are limitations on where these checks can be located. - Emergency Check: This is a check that is secret, and is timed to the second. Emergency checks usually end up being tiebreakers
for when riders end up with the same scores at the Secret checks. An Emergency check is marked with a banner that looks like
this. There are limitations on where these checks can be located. - Observation Check: As its name implies, an Observation check is designed to observe whether you're staying on the course or not.
Also referred to as "OB" checks, these can be located anywhere on the course. OB checks are marked with a banner that looks like
this.
Here is where it's very helpful to read and understand the AMA enduro rule book, for there are specific instances where these checks can
and can't be used. For example, a timed check (i.e. #2 and #3 above) has to be placed on an even tenth of a mile. Following a Start Control
or timed check, the next timed checkpoint has to be at least 3 miles further down the trail.
What we have here is a 24 mph average speed for the 2010 event. Various mileage points are
listed, most referring to the locations of specific points where riders will need to pay attention.
Some enduros use public roads to transfer between woods sections, and the route sheets will
typically list the mileage points at turns, intersections, stop signs, railroad crossings, etc.
The Akeley West race promoter helpfully included the corresponding times at which riders
should arrive at those various mileage points. The first identified point of interest comes at mile
marker 3.11, which is marked as a right turn. What's so special about a right turn at mile 3.11,
you ask? After all, it's not likely the course will go perfectly straight for 3.11 miles, right? Well, the
fact that this particular turn is worth mentioning probably means there is something different
going on here. If I were to guess, I would say that somewhere before mile marker 3.11, the
course followed some sort of road or wide trail, and at that point the arrows marking the course
would point to either a right hand turn on a road, or into a narrow opening inside some trees to
the right. It's probably a spot where you'll be riding at a fast pace and might miss it if you're not
looking ahead. If riders are maintaining the 24 mph speed average, they would arrive at this
turn 7 minutes and 47 seconds after the start. At this turn the club may have stapled a mileage
card to a road sign or fence post to indicate what your odometer should read at that point.
Honestly, I rarely pay much attention to this type of information. If I stay attentive to the arrows, I'll
know where to go. If there's a particularly dangerous point in the course that is worthy of special
mention, such as a busy road crossing, the race promoters will probably point this out at the
rider's meeting before the race.
Absent on this route sheet is mile marker 2.90, which often shows up as a mileage check. This
is a reference to an enduro rule that prohibits checkpoints (or in the enduro vernacular,
"checks") within 3 miles of a previous checkpoint. The beginning of the race, by definition, is a
"start control", which is a checkpoint subject to the 3-mile rule. Therefore, if you're riding the
Akeley West enduro and think you can ride faster than 24 mph for those first 3 miles, you're free
to do it and won't be penalized because nobody will be there to check your speed average.
At 2.90 miles into the race, the race promoters usually staple a card to a tree with "2.90" printed
on it. This gives riders a chance to compare their odometers to the 2.90 mile marker and make
any adjustments. If the course has been fairly wide open up to that point and you've been riding
faster than 24 mph, then you can take a break and wait until your clock shows that 7 minutes
and 15 seconds have elapsed since the start (do the math...takes 15 seconds to travel
one-tenth of a mile when you're riding 24 mph).
Odometer adjustments are a common necessity throughout an enduro, for a couple of
reasons. The club member who rode the trails and generated the route sheet may have a
different odometer than yours. Or, his riding style may be slightly different than yours. These tiny
differences can add up to meaningful variations in mileage as the trail passes by mile after
mile, so it's important to compare your odometer reading to the "official" mileage markers
posted throughout the course.
The first reset in the Akeley West Enduro occurred at mile marker 4.60. At that point, riders were
instructed to advance their odometers forward to 8.54 miles. Just like that, everyone moved
forward 3.94 miles without having to do anything. It's possible that many riders would have
been a little late to arrive at the 4.60 mile marker, so the reset gave everyone a chance to get
back on time. Resets might also give you a chance to rest for a bit. For example, if you arrived at
the 4.60 mile marker 15 minutes into the race, then after resetting your odometer you'd now be
ahead of schedule. You've effectively been moved ahead to mile marker 8.54, which you're not
scheduled to arrive at until 21 minutes and 21 seconds into the race. So you would have over 6
minutes before you needed to start moving again.
We'll get into more details about what the rest of the route sheet numbers mean later, but first
let's show what you would do with this information if your intention was to keep time the
old-school way: roll chart, odometer and a watch.
Keeping Time
In order to encourage prospective enduro racers to get in the game and go racing, experienced
enduro folks will often gently encourage these riders by saying things like "Don't worry, all you
need is a stopwatch and an odometer" or "Just find someone on your row with an enduro
computer and stay behind him." These well-meaning individuals aren't really painting the full
picture. While a stopwatch and odometer are certainly a basic requirement, unless you are
excellent at quickly calculating math problems, you'll also need a roll chart and a roll chart
holder. A roll chart is made up of a long series of mileage points and the corresponding times
on the clock in which you would need to arrive at those mileage points in order to maintain the
average speed.
Here is an example of a roll chart (click on the photo for an enlarged view):
listed, most referring to the locations of specific points where riders will need to pay attention.
Some enduros use public roads to transfer between woods sections, and the route sheets will
typically list the mileage points at turns, intersections, stop signs, railroad crossings, etc.
The Akeley West race promoter helpfully included the corresponding times at which riders
should arrive at those various mileage points. The first identified point of interest comes at mile
marker 3.11, which is marked as a right turn. What's so special about a right turn at mile 3.11,
you ask? After all, it's not likely the course will go perfectly straight for 3.11 miles, right? Well, the
fact that this particular turn is worth mentioning probably means there is something different
going on here. If I were to guess, I would say that somewhere before mile marker 3.11, the
course followed some sort of road or wide trail, and at that point the arrows marking the course
would point to either a right hand turn on a road, or into a narrow opening inside some trees to
the right. It's probably a spot where you'll be riding at a fast pace and might miss it if you're not
looking ahead. If riders are maintaining the 24 mph speed average, they would arrive at this
turn 7 minutes and 47 seconds after the start. At this turn the club may have stapled a mileage
card to a road sign or fence post to indicate what your odometer should read at that point.
Honestly, I rarely pay much attention to this type of information. If I stay attentive to the arrows, I'll
know where to go. If there's a particularly dangerous point in the course that is worthy of special
mention, such as a busy road crossing, the race promoters will probably point this out at the
rider's meeting before the race.
Absent on this route sheet is mile marker 2.90, which often shows up as a mileage check. This
is a reference to an enduro rule that prohibits checkpoints (or in the enduro vernacular,
"checks") within 3 miles of a previous checkpoint. The beginning of the race, by definition, is a
"start control", which is a checkpoint subject to the 3-mile rule. Therefore, if you're riding the
Akeley West enduro and think you can ride faster than 24 mph for those first 3 miles, you're free
to do it and won't be penalized because nobody will be there to check your speed average.
At 2.90 miles into the race, the race promoters usually staple a card to a tree with "2.90" printed
on it. This gives riders a chance to compare their odometers to the 2.90 mile marker and make
any adjustments. If the course has been fairly wide open up to that point and you've been riding
faster than 24 mph, then you can take a break and wait until your clock shows that 7 minutes
and 15 seconds have elapsed since the start (do the math...takes 15 seconds to travel
one-tenth of a mile when you're riding 24 mph).
Odometer adjustments are a common necessity throughout an enduro, for a couple of
reasons. The club member who rode the trails and generated the route sheet may have a
different odometer than yours. Or, his riding style may be slightly different than yours. These tiny
differences can add up to meaningful variations in mileage as the trail passes by mile after
mile, so it's important to compare your odometer reading to the "official" mileage markers
posted throughout the course.
The first reset in the Akeley West Enduro occurred at mile marker 4.60. At that point, riders were
instructed to advance their odometers forward to 8.54 miles. Just like that, everyone moved
forward 3.94 miles without having to do anything. It's possible that many riders would have
been a little late to arrive at the 4.60 mile marker, so the reset gave everyone a chance to get
back on time. Resets might also give you a chance to rest for a bit. For example, if you arrived at
the 4.60 mile marker 15 minutes into the race, then after resetting your odometer you'd now be
ahead of schedule. You've effectively been moved ahead to mile marker 8.54, which you're not
scheduled to arrive at until 21 minutes and 21 seconds into the race. So you would have over 6
minutes before you needed to start moving again.
We'll get into more details about what the rest of the route sheet numbers mean later, but first
let's show what you would do with this information if your intention was to keep time the
old-school way: roll chart, odometer and a watch.
Keeping Time
In order to encourage prospective enduro racers to get in the game and go racing, experienced
enduro folks will often gently encourage these riders by saying things like "Don't worry, all you
need is a stopwatch and an odometer" or "Just find someone on your row with an enduro
computer and stay behind him." These well-meaning individuals aren't really painting the full
picture. While a stopwatch and odometer are certainly a basic requirement, unless you are
excellent at quickly calculating math problems, you'll also need a roll chart and a roll chart
holder. A roll chart is made up of a long series of mileage points and the corresponding times
on the clock in which you would need to arrive at those mileage points in order to maintain the
average speed.
Here is an example of a roll chart (click on the photo for an enlarged view):
Editor's note: the following discussion focuses on the art of "timekeeping" enduros, and by that I mean old-school cross country
racing against the clock - the kind that requires maintaining an average speed over the length of the course. While there are other
types of enduros such as Brand-X and ISDE qualifier types, below is my take on traditional timekeeping enduros.
If you are new to or inexperienced in racing enduros, it may help to review the official American Motorcyclist Association rules of
enduro racing before reading the rest of this page. Or maybe it won't matter. Either way, enjoy!
racing against the clock - the kind that requires maintaining an average speed over the length of the course. While there are other
types of enduros such as Brand-X and ISDE qualifier types, below is my take on traditional timekeeping enduros.
If you are new to or inexperienced in racing enduros, it may help to review the official American Motorcyclist Association rules of
enduro racing before reading the rest of this page. Or maybe it won't matter. Either way, enjoy!
what mile marker I was supposed to be at. If my odometer read lower
than that number, I was going too slow and needed to speed up. If
my odometer read higher than what the roll chart indicated, I was
going too fast and need to slow down. I formatted the spreadsheet
so I could cut out the columns to a width that would fit into a roll chart
holder. I then taped the strips together so that I had one long, narrow,
continuous roll of paper that could be fed into the roll chart holder.
The roll chart in the pictures came from the 2005 Leadbelt Enduro at
Park Hills, Missouri. The Missouri Mudders club was nice enough to
provide a route sheet in advance of the race so I could put together
my roll chart ahead of time. Some clubs don't do this, and you're
stuck bringing a generic roll chart to the race and then modifying it to
suit the route sheet. It takes time, which is usually at a premium on
the day of the race. The Leadbelt contained a number of speed
average changes, which are noted in the roll chart. The Akeley West
Enduro did not contain any speed average changes. Its entire route
was run at 24 mph.
Using the Leadbelt Enduro route sheet, I set up the spreadsheet to
calculate exactly where I should be on the course at the top of each
minute. Their route sheet assumed that I would set my clock or watch
to read 8:00 (the Leadbelt keytime) when I started racing. Therefore,
when my clock said 11:21 a.m. (3 hours and 21 minutes into the
race), I should have been at mile marker 72.3. If my odometer read
less than 72.3 at 11:21, I was running behind.
The Akeley West route sheet assumed that a stopwatch would be
used to keep time. When the race started, the times corresponding to
the various points on the route sheet would be the elapsed time
since the start.
The roll chart holder mounts to the handlebars and has two knobs;
one to advance forward and one to advance backward. In theory,
during the race you supposed to be glancing at the time to see how
than that number, I was going too slow and needed to speed up. If
my odometer read higher than what the roll chart indicated, I was
going too fast and need to slow down. I formatted the spreadsheet
so I could cut out the columns to a width that would fit into a roll chart
holder. I then taped the strips together so that I had one long, narrow,
continuous roll of paper that could be fed into the roll chart holder.
The roll chart in the pictures came from the 2005 Leadbelt Enduro at
Park Hills, Missouri. The Missouri Mudders club was nice enough to
provide a route sheet in advance of the race so I could put together
my roll chart ahead of time. Some clubs don't do this, and you're
stuck bringing a generic roll chart to the race and then modifying it to
suit the route sheet. It takes time, which is usually at a premium on
the day of the race. The Leadbelt contained a number of speed
average changes, which are noted in the roll chart. The Akeley West
Enduro did not contain any speed average changes. Its entire route
was run at 24 mph.
Using the Leadbelt Enduro route sheet, I set up the spreadsheet to
calculate exactly where I should be on the course at the top of each
minute. Their route sheet assumed that I would set my clock or watch
to read 8:00 (the Leadbelt keytime) when I started racing. Therefore,
when my clock said 11:21 a.m. (3 hours and 21 minutes into the
race), I should have been at mile marker 72.3. If my odometer read
less than 72.3 at 11:21, I was running behind.
The Akeley West route sheet assumed that a stopwatch would be
used to keep time. When the race started, the times corresponding to
the various points on the route sheet would be the elapsed time
since the start.
The roll chart holder mounts to the handlebars and has two knobs;
one to advance forward and one to advance backward. In theory,
during the race you supposed to be glancing at the time to see how