That time I bought a bike from Canada





Searching for cheap, as usual.



I like bargains, plain and simple. When interesting deals come about, I'll consider just about anything that makes sense. When a short-lived company called Motorcycle Brokers began selling dirt bikes to the general public for surprisingly low prices, I took the bait and bought a 2003 Kawasaki KX250. The company was a dealer/importer based in the Vancouver area. For an extra $200, they would ship the bike in its crate to the nearest Forward Air freight terminal. Sounded legit, so I wired several thousand dollars to Canada and hoped a new motorcycle would show up at the St. Louis airport.


And it did.





The KX250 crate, with its cardboard removed. Some assembly required.



Converting a motocross bike into a woods weapon





All it takes is time and money.



Why, you ask, would anyone spend the time and effort to convert a motocross bike into a woods racer, when so many other bikes can be bought off the showroom floor, perfectly set up for the same type of riding? The answer is simple: I don't know, but it sure was fun.


To be serious, I took the conversion plunge only because I was able to find motocross bikes which could be bought at reasonable prices. Economically, it just doesn't make sense to pay top dollar for the latest and greatest motocross bike and then spend more money turning it into a woods bike. I also knew the aftermarket was flush with all the parts I needed to make the KX250 good in the woods, and the internet was full of ideas and advice.


I performed these conversions on both a 2003 and a 2004 KX250.





The woods-converted 2003 KX250 in my garage.



The Conversion List





In order of importance, here are the minimum items needed to make a woods weapon out of a motocross bike:


Suspension work

Re-valving the suspension and switching to softer springs was absolutely the first priority in making the KX250 tolerable in the woods. For fun, I uncrated the 2003 KX250 and took it straight to St. Joe State Park (Park Hills, Missouri) for a break-in ride. The suspension was so harsh, at times I wasn't sure it was even there. I crashed over and over and vowed never to do that again.


I sent my shock and forks from both of my KX's to W.E.R. Racing, an off-road suspension specialist, for re-valving. Fork springs were replaced with 0.42's (stock was 0.44) and the rear spring was replaced with a 4.8 (5.2 was stock).


Total Cost (2003): $568


Flywheel weight

In stock form, the KX250 was incredibly responsive. Twist the throttle and the engine immediately took off. In the woods, the downside was stalling, a weakness of most motocross bikes. On tricky trails, the KX still needed to be revved. The flywheel weight smoothed out the power delivery and helped prevent stalling. I installed an 11 ounce weight manufactured by Steahly Off Road.


Total Cost (2003): $100


Larger fuel tank

The two gallon capacity of the stock KX250 fuel tank wasn't enough for a 2-hour hare scramble. I never had a pit crew to assist at races, so I wanted the capacity to finish races without refueling. When I bought my first KX250, IMS Products was the only larger-capacity option (Clarke Racing would later offer a similar tank. Both were three gallons).


The IMS tank was an example of having to coerce two aftermarket products to play nice together. I was using an Emig Racing upper triple clamp because of its mounting system for hand guards. The ends of its clamp bolts were angled in toward the IMS tank. When the handlebars were turned fully to the left or right, the triple clamp bolts would hit the tank. I solved the issue by switching to flatter panhead style bolts and heated the plastic tank so I could mold it slightly to gain proper clearance.


Total Cost (2003): $200


O-ring chain

Both KX250s came with standard chains. The chains don't last long in dirty, muddy conditions. O-ring chains are a must for off-road motorcycles.


Total Cost (2003): $50


Woods conversions often include more than these items. I preferred 18-inch rear wheels, rather than the 19-inch wheels which came stock on the KX250s. The foot pegs were weak in the rocks, so I replaced those with a set from IMS Products. The 2003 conversion cost was over $1,000 just for the necessities. I spent another $300 for an 18-inch rim and spokes, as well as $90 for IMS foot pegs. By the time I was finished, I'd spent almost $1,500 turning my first KX250 into a woods bike.


The 2004 conversion cost a bit less, as the 2003 fuel tank and flywheel weight fit the 2004 model.





overall impressions of a converted motocross bike





When I bought my first KX250, the purpose-built hare scramble or GNCC-style dirt bike didn't exist on showroom floors. KTM would later develop its XC lineup to fill this gap and other manufacturers would follow, but during the early 2000s there was only one way to obtain a hardcore cross country racer: Build it yourself. The following observations on motocross conversions are therefore dated, but may still have some relevance in making a decision between an enduro/trail bike and an XC-style race bike.



Back in the day, I was often asked if I had any regrets about switching from a purpose-built woods bike (KTM) to a motocross bike for woods racing (KX250). The answer was relatively simple, actually: My 2002 KTM 300MXC started gathering dust after I bought and converted the KX250. But it's a valid question – what did I like better, and why? As with most of the important issues in life, there is no simple answer. There is no right or wrong. Both bikes were good, but in different ways. As much as you may wish me to provide a definitive solution to the conundrum of which to buy, motocross bike or purpose-built woods bike, I cannot, because I am not you. What I can offer is my opinions on how my KX and my KTM performed under various conditions and rider styles. After reading these thoughts, you may still have questions. You may still have uncertainty. But such is life.


General Overview - KTM

I’ve owned KTMs off and on for many years, and had I not attempted the KX woods conversion I would have been satisfied with orange for pretty much all my years of racing. The KTM engines, the 300 in particular, are suitable for just about any skill level and experience. Most riders can adapt their styles to the low-end grunt that the 300 is known for. There’s no unfriendly hit in the powerband, just smooth power from bottom to top. With its low-end muscle, climbing up a steep, technical hill can be accomplished with less use of clutch than your average 2-stroke bike. Bigger-bore 4-strokes may be the kings of smooth power delivery, but the KTM 300 is the thumper’s closest oil-burning rival.


Since the KTM’s I owned were purpose-built woods racers, they were set up well for hare scrambles and enduros. Suspension was excellent, with the exception of the 43mm forks on the 2002 300MXC. The KTM’s came with lighting coils and fuel tanks large enough to complete 2-hour hare scrambles without stopping for gas. O-ring chains and 18-inch rear wheels were stock, as were kickstands. All of these things made riding in the woods a little more enjoyable.


General Overview- KX250

Since it was engineered for motocross, the KX was far from race-ready in the woods. However, I must diverge from our topic here and mention that no bike – not a single one – is race-ready out of the crate. Forget what the magazines say about KTM’s. I’d never race one without a skid plate, rear rotor guard, metal handguards, or a steering damper. No matter what bike you buy, if you plan on racing it in the woods, you'll do things to make it suitable for woods riding.


Now, back to our topic.


Motocross engineering involves specially tuned engines made for sprinting, basically, and the suspension is tuned for hard landings. Think of it as the difference between running the 200-meter hurdles and the 5,000-meter steeplechase. The guys who run those races might look similar in that they generally have two arms, two legs and usually some nice shoes, but inside they’re tuned differently. Woods riders need an engine with smooth power for tight, twisty trails and suspension which soaks up smaller, choppy bumps. In stock form the KX250 (or any other motocross bike) was by no means smooth in the woods. But what it lacked in trail-friendliness could be bought in the aftermarket.


I began with the suspension, sending it to W.E.R. Racing for a revalve. Softer springs, front and rear, also helped make the ride comfortably plush. I then added an 11-ounce flywheel weight to smooth out the engine. The toughest part about riding a stock KX250 in the woods was that it wanted – demanded, actually – nearly constant throttle. Before he switched to an RM250, I used to give Missouri fast guy Zach Bryant some good-natured ribbing about never letting the throttle on his RM125 slip under the halfway point, but that's the way MX bikes must be ridden in order to go fast. Unfortunately, it’s hard to be smooth when the bike is screaming at 8,000 RPM’s in a tight, first-gear section of trail filled with loose, baseball-sized rocks. The extra inertia contributed by a flywheel weight keeps the engine RPM’s from quickly dropping off to next-to-nothing when letting off the throttle. It also gives more lugging power at lower RPM’s.


Other necessities for the KX250 were a 3.1-gallon IMS tank and an RK X-ring chain to replace the non-O-ring chain. Its 19-inch rear wheel aside, in this state the KX was moderately equivalent in hare scramble readiness to a KTM out of the crate (the KX would still lack some enduro-readiness, however). The KX in the woods was not entirely comparable to a KTM, however. It was a different beast. While the KX probably generated similar horsepower as the KTM 300’s, it delivered that power in a distinctive way. Bred as a motocrosser, the KX preferred to be ridden aggressively. It shined when I was on the gas with the rear wheel spinning. The KX loved to turn, which made it cut through tight, curvy trails with ease. Stopping power was excellent, with a strong front brake that halted the bike quickly. At speed, the KX was remarkably stable.


What my KTMs Did that the KX Did Not

If I’m nearing the end of a long, tough enduro, there’s no bike I’d rather have than a KTM 300. Late in the race, when my energy level was running on empty and the race organizers saved the roughest, most technical trails for last, the 300 let me be lazy. The KX, on the other hand, did not reward lethargic riders. If I was fatigued, the KX tired me more. Also, certain purpose-built off-road bikes have wide-ratio transmissions, meaning a higher top speed for those rare occasions when you need to drag race through a wide-open trail. My 1999 KTM 300EXC and 2003 Gas Gas 300EC had these transmissions, and I liked them.


The KTM's have been using hydraulic clutches for many years, which I feel are superior to cable clutches in terms of operation. The action is smooth and always feels the same, no matter how much you heat up the clutch.



What the KX Did that my KTMs Did Not

At a race pace, the KX generally felt more confidence-inspiring, starting with the front brake. Where my first two KTMs often left me wondering if I’d get stopped in time, the KX could be late-braked without fear of overshooting a turn, thanks to a very strong, firm front brake. It also felt more stable at higher speeds. Both KTM’s were prone to headshake when the throttle was opened up in 5th gear, but not the KX. The engine had a substantial hit in its powerband, which was useful on bermed grass tracks. Throw the KX into a berm with a healthy dose of throttle, dump the clutch and hang on.


I was also more satisfied with the KX250 linkage rear suspension in terms of tracking, versus the PDS linkage-less shock on the KTMs.


The Conclusion

So which was better? Again, there’s no definitive answer, but here’s what I think: The KTM 300 was a great bike for all abilities, but probably more so for beginners and intermediate skill levels. The engine was extremely forgiving and the low-end grunt meant less clutch work and less wheel spin. It was also simpler (and more economical, sometimes) to set up for riding/racing.


Back in the day, aggressive riders may have extracted more out of the KX and converted motocross bikes in general. I don’t think it was an accident that in the 1990s and 2000s, so many of the top GNCC guys raced motocross bikes. Now that manufacturers have developed hybrid bikes like KTM's XC line, there seem to be fewer riders converting motocross bikes into woods racers. But for a guy who’s in good physical shape and can ride hard for hours at a time, a converted motocross bike has its place in the woods.


From a strictly monetary perspective, there's a lot less reason these days to convert a motocross bike for woods racing. Any purpose-built KTM will probably cost less to make ready for racing. But not always. As I found with my two KX250's, a leftover Japanese MX bike, adequately discounted, could sometimes be bought and modified for about the same cost as a purpose-built KTM. However, if you plan to ride enduros and need lights, then in almost every case the MX bike becomes more expensive to convert for woods use.


In summary, I enjoyed the KTM 300s because they represented the best value for an all-around bike. Today's enduro-ready bikes are probably even a better value, if you need a bike with lights. But if you’re an aggressive rider, in good physical condition and want to specialize in hare scrambles and GNCC’s, a converted motocross bike isn't the only option by any means. But in the time before the KTM XC lineup changed the world, a motocross conversion certainly had its place.