FMF Fatty Pipe (KX)
After my short-lived experiment with a heavy, bottom-end-boosting Gnarly pipe
on my 2003 KX250, I wanted to preserve the super-light feel of the front end.
Instead of mounting a heavy Moose steel guard around the stock pipe, I bought
an inventory of cheap stock pipes from eBay from motocross guys who wanted
shiny pipes instead of black ones. Once or twice a year I'd bang the crap out of
a pipe, pull it off the bike, throw it in the trash and bolt on a $50 replacement.
This continued with the 2004 KX250 for about half the 2006 season. After
moving out of St. Louis, for some reason the dents came more often and with
much greater force in Illinois than Missouri. I was going through pipes like a
Nicole Richie supply of Exlax. A year earlier I'd found an FMF Fatty pipe on eBay
for about $70 delivered to my door, which by mid-2006 was the last spare pipe
in my inventory. I installed it just before a Wedron, Illinois hare scramble and
used it the rest of the year.
The difference between the Fatty and the stock pipe is small but noticeable.
There's a little more throttle response; a bit more "pep" in the engine. Power-
wise, I can't tell much difference. My version of the Fatty was the "Factory"
model, which is just like the regular version except it doesn't have a shiny nickel
plating. It appears FMF skipped the nickel plating process to give the pipe a
rough appearance like those found on factory motocross racers. It's marketing
genius: motocross racers hand over an extra $20 or so and get a pipe that
would seem to cost less to manufacture. The downside is that it always looks
rusty. But hey, I'm an off-roader. The only places my bike shines are where I've
applied fresh duct tape.
FMF Turbine Core (KTM and KX)
The FMF Turbine Core is a silencer/spark arrestor that is legal for use in
enduros and government-owned riding areas. It's a few inches shorter than the
elongated silencers from the early-2000's KTM's but slightly longer than the
stock silencer on the KX. Sound levels are comparable to stock silencers, with
the exhaust note on the KX just a bit softer. Back in the EXC/MXC days of KTM,
the silencers were notorious for dripping black oily spooge out of the silencer,
and the FMF Turbine Core helped clean that up somewhat. Some dripping
remained, but the whole exhaust system became more free-flowing, so instead
of spooge dripping down onto the brake caliper and pads, it blew out and
sprayed my jersey with tiny black dots. Quality is typical FMF, which means it's
top-notch and installation was simple. The Turbine Core uses all of the stock
mounting, which means you have to pull off the rubber bushings on the stock
unit. I used a Turbine Core on both KTM's in conjunction with various FMF
pipes (most recently a Gnarly) and since the 2007 Leadbelt Enduro have been
running it on my KX250.
In July 2001, the Turbine Core on my KTM 300EXC bit the dust. At the Tebbetts,
Missouri hare scramble, the stinger tube broke off from the silencer body. I
called the FMF warranty department and they agreed to replace it free of charge,
even though it was about 8 months past its warranty. Apparently the KTM's had
enough flex in the pipe/silencer joint that several FMF silencers had broken on
the KTM's. Probably didn't help that my sub-frame had a slight tweak (thanks to
Belleville in '99) that caused the mounts to be off slightly, requiring a bit of
persuasion to get the silencer mounted. Over time, that was probably what
caused the weakness that broke the thing. The new Turbine Core appeared to
have a thicker weld where the stinger tube met the silencer body.
I bought a slightly used Turbine Core for my 2003 KX250 and never used it until
the AMA's National Enduro Series went to a closed-course, rally-style format in
2007 that required no timekeeping. Without the need for an odometer, I brought
the 2004 KX250 to the Leadbelt Enduro and bolted on the Turbine Core. It
passed the sound test and didn't affect power delivery at any noticeable level.
One of the downsides to the Turbine Core is that if you want to fully
disassemble it down to the end cap, rivets must be drilled out and replaced
with some other type of fastener (unless you have the tools to re-rivet the end
cap). About the only thing I've found that works halfway decent is very large-
diameter sheet metal screws. The challenge is finding a "fat" enough screw to
match the diameter of the internal clips that hold the insides of the end cap
against the outer shell. The next challenge is keeping the screws from falling
out. The best I could do is #14 sheet metal screws, 3/4" long. This does require
drilling to make the original rivet holes a little larger. The only way I've found to
effectively keep the screws in place is dipping them in JB Weld and screwing
them in (they'll still come out the next time you need to disassemble the end
cap).
Watchdog Enduro Computer by Dugas Engineering
The first 29 enduros I entered, a roll chart and a clock were my timekeeping
tools. In 2007, I finally stepped into 1985 and went fully electronic. Enduro
computers have been around for a long time, but most had more features that I
was willing to pay hundreds of dollars for. I didn't need the thing beeping at me
every time it was possible for a check to appear, fancy bar charts or Blackberry
synchronizing. Dugas Engineering came along a few years back and simplified
the enduro computer concept just a bit. Mainly, it tells me whether I'm early or
late, and how much so. What else do I need to know?
I initially set up the Watchdog on my KX250, which was easy enough except for
the placement of the magnet sensor pickup. KTM and Gas Gas make it easy by
supplying a front brake caliper with a tapped hole in which the sensor end can
be threaded into. No such luck on the KX250. I had to get creative and fabricate
a metal bracket, which I tried two different ways before getting it mounted fairly
solidly. Mounting the Gas Gas sensor pickup was a breeze.
The supplied handlebar mounting brackets required some drilling but were
otherwise trouble free to set up. The instructions are fairly thorough in
explaining the do's and dont's of installation. The programming instructions are
also good. One thing that is missing, however, is a warning not to program a 24
mph speed average at the start of the route. The Watchdog automatically
defaults to this speed average. When I entered 24 mph at mile 0.00, the
odometer wouldn't count miles until the next speed change.
Otherwise, the Watchdog has been a great addition to my collection of
hardware.
Scotts Performance Steering Stabilizer
First off, I would like to express my huge pet peeve with people who refer to
these as "dampeners." Folks, read the Scotts web site. Does it say
"dampener" anywhere? Try damper. DAMPER!! Or, to avoid my complete and
total wrath, how about steering stabilizer?
By now I think most people understand the concept of a steering damper.
These small but pricey gadgets prevent the handlebars from being yanked out
of your hands when you hit an unseen object. This smoothing effect also helps
reduce arm fatigue. Everything people say about the advantages of these
devices is right on. The damper is a valuable safety tool and has improved my
speed (or lack thereof) in rocky terrain.
Three basic steering damper designs are on the market today:
I chose the Scotts mainly because of its features and its ability to be used with
just about any upper triple clamp. Installation was more challenging than most
aftermarket products I've added because for all of my bikes, I've chosen the
weld-on tower option. Even though both Scotts and GPR offer towers that can
be bolted onto the steering head, I've had very limited success in making them
work. The bolt-on tower for my 2003 KX250 required modifications to fit properly
and never did stay in place (I finally welded it to the frame). A bolt-on tower I tried
to use on my 2002 300MXC interfered with the upper triple clamp whenever I
turned the handlebars. Weld-on towers must be carefully centered and the
steering head bearing must be kept cool during the welding process. The
Scotts instructions are very detailed, so as long as you follow them and have
average or better welding skills, it's not that hard.
The other challenging part of the Scotts damper is deciding whether to go with
the standard handlebars or fork over more cash to convert to tapered (no
crossbar) handlebars. Most people, like me, go with the tapered bars.
Standard handlebars must have the crossbar curved upwards so the damper
can fit under it. Total cost after buying new handlebars, a new upper triple
clamp, and the Scotts damper is about $600. For me, it was a wise investment.
I won't ever own a dirt bike without one.
On my KX250 (and previously on my KTM 300MXC), I'm using the Scotts bolt-on
tower in conjunction with an Emig Racing upper triple clamp. The Emig setup
comes with a handlebar top clamp with several different positions available for
the damper to sit upon. Pick your handlebar position and there's a damper
mounting position to match.
SDG Complete Seat (KTM & KX250)
KTM's notoriously firm seats took a turn for the worse with the 2002 models,
with foam having a hardness rating somewhere in the neighborhood of granite.
KTM reps claimed in the May 2003 issue of Dirt Rider magazine that the seats
do eventually break in, but after 20 hours in the saddle, my ass could take no
more. I bought a complete replacement seat manufactured by SDG.
SDG offers a couple of combinations, either a standard seat or a tall seat with
softer foam. I went with the taller seat and was extremely pleased that I didn't
notice it at all during my first ride, which means it was a vast improvement over
the stock KTM seat. No doubt it was taller and not well suited for the inseam-
challenged, but the seat just felt good. After taking a spin on a CR250 with a
stock seat, I immediately noticed how much farther down I was sitting on the
Honda and how much easier it was to stand up on the footpegs on the KTM.
The fit was decent, although the initial installation required a bit of persuasion
to get the bolt holes lined up. The top of the seat was a grippy material and the
sides had somewhat less grip. At the Kahoka, Missouri mudfest national hare
scramble in 2003, I had some problems staying attached to seat going up hills.
In the muddiest of conditions, a Factory Effex full gripper will keep you better
planted to the seat. The SDG seat color was all black, and the cost was a very
reasonable $96 from Rocky Mountain.
I liked the taller SDG seat so much that I've used it on both of my KX250's as
well. It keeps me a little higher on the bike, which makes it a little easier to get
my lazy butt off the seat and stand up. I did have to pull out about half the
staples holding the cover on the seat and stretch the cover a little tighter. The
IMS tank causes the front part of the seat to bend upward a little more than what
the SDG seat was intended. No big deal...although I wouldn't recommend
tackling any kind of seat cover work without an electric stapler.
Emig Racing Upper Triple Clamp (KTM & KX250)
I'm a big fan of the Emig clamp for one simple reason: handguards can be
mounted directly to the clamp. Plus, the handguard mounting system does not
share the clamp's pinch bolts (as with the Cycra-type mounts). The fit and
finish are excellent. The clamp has two handlebar positions to choose from.
One downside to the handguard mounts is that they aren't angled like the Cycra
mounts, so the handguards must be twisted where they mount to the clamp.
Overall, the Emig clamp is a work of art.
Enduro Engineering Rear Rotor Guard - Complete Carrier (KTM)
I bought one of these pretty, high-priced rotor protectors because a Lebanon
rock busted off one of the tabs that holds on the cheaper, bolt-on style of guard
('02 MXC). When that happens, unless you can find a brake caliper carrier on
eBay, you're pretty much screwed because it's gonna cost a bunch of money
(the carrier cannot be ordered separately through KTM). The EE guard set me
back $150 (they're now $95 but don't seem to be available anymore for pre-
2004 bikes), compared to a similar guard made by Scotts Performance that at
the time sold for $130. I chose the EE guard because it came with a
replaceable "fin" that could be purchased separately for $50.
My initial impression of the guard was that it was very beautifully manufactured.
However, the integration of the "fin" into the carrier had a questionable design.
The fin slid into the carrier and was held in place not by the three bolts (as
shown in the pictures) but by a single, very small set screw that screwed
through the fin and recessed into the carrier. I have no idea what purpose was
served by the three bolts, as they held absolutely nothing together. Likewise,
there were several counter-sunk holes on the inside of the fin...again, I couldn't
see that these served any purpose whatsoever. What concerned me most was
the tiny set screw, which was the only thing that kept the fin from sliding off. I
feared that a few solid impacts with rocks could snap it in two and let my $50 fin
slide out onto the trail. That's exactly what happened in July 2007 when the fin
finally broke off somewhere in Colorado. Also, the holes in the carrier in which
the caliper pins slide got out of shape, so much that the caliper was able to
shift around enough that the brake rotor made contact with the middle part of
the brake pad pin. The rotor ground off about half the diameter of the brake pad
pin. I wanted to junk the whole thing, but stupid me...I sold the original caliper
carrier on eBay years earlier, thinking I'd never need it again. Had I known of
this peculiar design, I would have chosen the Scotts guard. I've rock-tested yet
the guard a couple of times; so far so good.
Pro Circuit Pull Rods (KX250)
This was another cheap eBay buy, and glad it was because I never noticed any
difference whatsoever when I replaced the stock rear linkage pull rods with the
Pro Circuit pull rods. The Pro Circuit rods are supposed to be longer...or maybe
shorter, who knows. When Fred Andrews was riding for Kawasaki, he used
them and claimed they lowered the back end slightly to improve stability,
tracking, turning, whatever. They look kinda cool, though.
After my short-lived experiment with a heavy, bottom-end-boosting Gnarly pipe
on my 2003 KX250, I wanted to preserve the super-light feel of the front end.
Instead of mounting a heavy Moose steel guard around the stock pipe, I bought
an inventory of cheap stock pipes from eBay from motocross guys who wanted
shiny pipes instead of black ones. Once or twice a year I'd bang the crap out of
a pipe, pull it off the bike, throw it in the trash and bolt on a $50 replacement.
This continued with the 2004 KX250 for about half the 2006 season. After
moving out of St. Louis, for some reason the dents came more often and with
much greater force in Illinois than Missouri. I was going through pipes like a
Nicole Richie supply of Exlax. A year earlier I'd found an FMF Fatty pipe on eBay
for about $70 delivered to my door, which by mid-2006 was the last spare pipe
in my inventory. I installed it just before a Wedron, Illinois hare scramble and
used it the rest of the year.
The difference between the Fatty and the stock pipe is small but noticeable.
There's a little more throttle response; a bit more "pep" in the engine. Power-
wise, I can't tell much difference. My version of the Fatty was the "Factory"
model, which is just like the regular version except it doesn't have a shiny nickel
plating. It appears FMF skipped the nickel plating process to give the pipe a
rough appearance like those found on factory motocross racers. It's marketing
genius: motocross racers hand over an extra $20 or so and get a pipe that
would seem to cost less to manufacture. The downside is that it always looks
rusty. But hey, I'm an off-roader. The only places my bike shines are where I've
applied fresh duct tape.
FMF Turbine Core (KTM and KX)
The FMF Turbine Core is a silencer/spark arrestor that is legal for use in
enduros and government-owned riding areas. It's a few inches shorter than the
elongated silencers from the early-2000's KTM's but slightly longer than the
stock silencer on the KX. Sound levels are comparable to stock silencers, with
the exhaust note on the KX just a bit softer. Back in the EXC/MXC days of KTM,
the silencers were notorious for dripping black oily spooge out of the silencer,
and the FMF Turbine Core helped clean that up somewhat. Some dripping
remained, but the whole exhaust system became more free-flowing, so instead
of spooge dripping down onto the brake caliper and pads, it blew out and
sprayed my jersey with tiny black dots. Quality is typical FMF, which means it's
top-notch and installation was simple. The Turbine Core uses all of the stock
mounting, which means you have to pull off the rubber bushings on the stock
unit. I used a Turbine Core on both KTM's in conjunction with various FMF
pipes (most recently a Gnarly) and since the 2007 Leadbelt Enduro have been
running it on my KX250.
In July 2001, the Turbine Core on my KTM 300EXC bit the dust. At the Tebbetts,
Missouri hare scramble, the stinger tube broke off from the silencer body. I
called the FMF warranty department and they agreed to replace it free of charge,
even though it was about 8 months past its warranty. Apparently the KTM's had
enough flex in the pipe/silencer joint that several FMF silencers had broken on
the KTM's. Probably didn't help that my sub-frame had a slight tweak (thanks to
Belleville in '99) that caused the mounts to be off slightly, requiring a bit of
persuasion to get the silencer mounted. Over time, that was probably what
caused the weakness that broke the thing. The new Turbine Core appeared to
have a thicker weld where the stinger tube met the silencer body.
I bought a slightly used Turbine Core for my 2003 KX250 and never used it until
the AMA's National Enduro Series went to a closed-course, rally-style format in
2007 that required no timekeeping. Without the need for an odometer, I brought
the 2004 KX250 to the Leadbelt Enduro and bolted on the Turbine Core. It
passed the sound test and didn't affect power delivery at any noticeable level.
One of the downsides to the Turbine Core is that if you want to fully
disassemble it down to the end cap, rivets must be drilled out and replaced
with some other type of fastener (unless you have the tools to re-rivet the end
cap). About the only thing I've found that works halfway decent is very large-
diameter sheet metal screws. The challenge is finding a "fat" enough screw to
match the diameter of the internal clips that hold the insides of the end cap
against the outer shell. The next challenge is keeping the screws from falling
out. The best I could do is #14 sheet metal screws, 3/4" long. This does require
drilling to make the original rivet holes a little larger. The only way I've found to
effectively keep the screws in place is dipping them in JB Weld and screwing
them in (they'll still come out the next time you need to disassemble the end
cap).
Watchdog Enduro Computer by Dugas Engineering
The first 29 enduros I entered, a roll chart and a clock were my timekeeping
tools. In 2007, I finally stepped into 1985 and went fully electronic. Enduro
computers have been around for a long time, but most had more features that I
was willing to pay hundreds of dollars for. I didn't need the thing beeping at me
every time it was possible for a check to appear, fancy bar charts or Blackberry
synchronizing. Dugas Engineering came along a few years back and simplified
the enduro computer concept just a bit. Mainly, it tells me whether I'm early or
late, and how much so. What else do I need to know?
I initially set up the Watchdog on my KX250, which was easy enough except for
the placement of the magnet sensor pickup. KTM and Gas Gas make it easy by
supplying a front brake caliper with a tapped hole in which the sensor end can
be threaded into. No such luck on the KX250. I had to get creative and fabricate
a metal bracket, which I tried two different ways before getting it mounted fairly
solidly. Mounting the Gas Gas sensor pickup was a breeze.
The supplied handlebar mounting brackets required some drilling but were
otherwise trouble free to set up. The instructions are fairly thorough in
explaining the do's and dont's of installation. The programming instructions are
also good. One thing that is missing, however, is a warning not to program a 24
mph speed average at the start of the route. The Watchdog automatically
defaults to this speed average. When I entered 24 mph at mile 0.00, the
odometer wouldn't count miles until the next speed change.
Otherwise, the Watchdog has been a great addition to my collection of
hardware.
Scotts Performance Steering Stabilizer
First off, I would like to express my huge pet peeve with people who refer to
these as "dampeners." Folks, read the Scotts web site. Does it say
"dampener" anywhere? Try damper. DAMPER!! Or, to avoid my complete and
total wrath, how about steering stabilizer?
By now I think most people understand the concept of a steering damper.
These small but pricey gadgets prevent the handlebars from being yanked out
of your hands when you hit an unseen object. This smoothing effect also helps
reduce arm fatigue. Everything people say about the advantages of these
devices is right on. The damper is a valuable safety tool and has improved my
speed (or lack thereof) in rocky terrain.
Three basic steering damper designs are on the market today:
- Handlebar mounted. This includes the Scotts and GPR dampers, both
of which attach to the handlebar clamps. These offer on-the-fly
adjustability, but in certain unfortunate situations can sometimes imprint
a damper shape onto your chest protector or helmet. - Front mounted. W.E.R. was at one time the exclusive marketer of this
type of fender-mounted damper, but Scotts is now offering a special
front mount version. The advantage of a front mount is that it's unlikely
your body will ever make contact with the damper (if so, you've got worse
problems to deal with). The downside is that adjustments have to be
made when you're off the bike, more or less. Also, the way it sits on the
front fender always makes me wonder how many of those have been
sheared off by trees or other close encounters. - Triple clamp integrated. RTT Motorsports developed this innovative
damper in the early 2000's that is contained within a specially designed
upper triple clamp. You pretty much have to see it to believe it. The
mounting location disadvantages of the Scotts, GPR, and W.E.R.
dampers are nonexistent. However, upper triple clamp choices are
limited to whatever RTT decides to provide.
I chose the Scotts mainly because of its features and its ability to be used with
just about any upper triple clamp. Installation was more challenging than most
aftermarket products I've added because for all of my bikes, I've chosen the
weld-on tower option. Even though both Scotts and GPR offer towers that can
be bolted onto the steering head, I've had very limited success in making them
work. The bolt-on tower for my 2003 KX250 required modifications to fit properly
and never did stay in place (I finally welded it to the frame). A bolt-on tower I tried
to use on my 2002 300MXC interfered with the upper triple clamp whenever I
turned the handlebars. Weld-on towers must be carefully centered and the
steering head bearing must be kept cool during the welding process. The
Scotts instructions are very detailed, so as long as you follow them and have
average or better welding skills, it's not that hard.
The other challenging part of the Scotts damper is deciding whether to go with
the standard handlebars or fork over more cash to convert to tapered (no
crossbar) handlebars. Most people, like me, go with the tapered bars.
Standard handlebars must have the crossbar curved upwards so the damper
can fit under it. Total cost after buying new handlebars, a new upper triple
clamp, and the Scotts damper is about $600. For me, it was a wise investment.
I won't ever own a dirt bike without one.
On my KX250 (and previously on my KTM 300MXC), I'm using the Scotts bolt-on
tower in conjunction with an Emig Racing upper triple clamp. The Emig setup
comes with a handlebar top clamp with several different positions available for
the damper to sit upon. Pick your handlebar position and there's a damper
mounting position to match.
SDG Complete Seat (KTM & KX250)
KTM's notoriously firm seats took a turn for the worse with the 2002 models,
with foam having a hardness rating somewhere in the neighborhood of granite.
KTM reps claimed in the May 2003 issue of Dirt Rider magazine that the seats
do eventually break in, but after 20 hours in the saddle, my ass could take no
more. I bought a complete replacement seat manufactured by SDG.
SDG offers a couple of combinations, either a standard seat or a tall seat with
softer foam. I went with the taller seat and was extremely pleased that I didn't
notice it at all during my first ride, which means it was a vast improvement over
the stock KTM seat. No doubt it was taller and not well suited for the inseam-
challenged, but the seat just felt good. After taking a spin on a CR250 with a
stock seat, I immediately noticed how much farther down I was sitting on the
Honda and how much easier it was to stand up on the footpegs on the KTM.
The fit was decent, although the initial installation required a bit of persuasion
to get the bolt holes lined up. The top of the seat was a grippy material and the
sides had somewhat less grip. At the Kahoka, Missouri mudfest national hare
scramble in 2003, I had some problems staying attached to seat going up hills.
In the muddiest of conditions, a Factory Effex full gripper will keep you better
planted to the seat. The SDG seat color was all black, and the cost was a very
reasonable $96 from Rocky Mountain.
I liked the taller SDG seat so much that I've used it on both of my KX250's as
well. It keeps me a little higher on the bike, which makes it a little easier to get
my lazy butt off the seat and stand up. I did have to pull out about half the
staples holding the cover on the seat and stretch the cover a little tighter. The
IMS tank causes the front part of the seat to bend upward a little more than what
the SDG seat was intended. No big deal...although I wouldn't recommend
tackling any kind of seat cover work without an electric stapler.
Emig Racing Upper Triple Clamp (KTM & KX250)
I'm a big fan of the Emig clamp for one simple reason: handguards can be
mounted directly to the clamp. Plus, the handguard mounting system does not
share the clamp's pinch bolts (as with the Cycra-type mounts). The fit and
finish are excellent. The clamp has two handlebar positions to choose from.
One downside to the handguard mounts is that they aren't angled like the Cycra
mounts, so the handguards must be twisted where they mount to the clamp.
Overall, the Emig clamp is a work of art.
Enduro Engineering Rear Rotor Guard - Complete Carrier (KTM)
I bought one of these pretty, high-priced rotor protectors because a Lebanon
rock busted off one of the tabs that holds on the cheaper, bolt-on style of guard
('02 MXC). When that happens, unless you can find a brake caliper carrier on
eBay, you're pretty much screwed because it's gonna cost a bunch of money
(the carrier cannot be ordered separately through KTM). The EE guard set me
back $150 (they're now $95 but don't seem to be available anymore for pre-
2004 bikes), compared to a similar guard made by Scotts Performance that at
the time sold for $130. I chose the EE guard because it came with a
replaceable "fin" that could be purchased separately for $50.
My initial impression of the guard was that it was very beautifully manufactured.
However, the integration of the "fin" into the carrier had a questionable design.
The fin slid into the carrier and was held in place not by the three bolts (as
shown in the pictures) but by a single, very small set screw that screwed
through the fin and recessed into the carrier. I have no idea what purpose was
served by the three bolts, as they held absolutely nothing together. Likewise,
there were several counter-sunk holes on the inside of the fin...again, I couldn't
see that these served any purpose whatsoever. What concerned me most was
the tiny set screw, which was the only thing that kept the fin from sliding off. I
feared that a few solid impacts with rocks could snap it in two and let my $50 fin
slide out onto the trail. That's exactly what happened in July 2007 when the fin
finally broke off somewhere in Colorado. Also, the holes in the carrier in which
the caliper pins slide got out of shape, so much that the caliper was able to
shift around enough that the brake rotor made contact with the middle part of
the brake pad pin. The rotor ground off about half the diameter of the brake pad
pin. I wanted to junk the whole thing, but stupid me...I sold the original caliper
carrier on eBay years earlier, thinking I'd never need it again. Had I known of
this peculiar design, I would have chosen the Scotts guard. I've rock-tested yet
the guard a couple of times; so far so good.
Pro Circuit Pull Rods (KX250)
This was another cheap eBay buy, and glad it was because I never noticed any
difference whatsoever when I replaced the stock rear linkage pull rods with the
Pro Circuit pull rods. The Pro Circuit rods are supposed to be longer...or maybe
shorter, who knows. When Fred Andrews was riding for Kawasaki, he used
them and claimed they lowered the back end slightly to improve stability,
tracking, turning, whatever. They look kinda cool, though.
Click on pictures to
see larger image
see larger image
| Scotts damper with Emig clamp on the KX250 |
| SDG seat on the KTM 300MXC |
| Scotts damper and Emig clamp on the 300MXC |
Product Reviews
| Routing for the magnet sensor cable on the Gas Gas |
| Magnet sensor pickup - mounting for KX250 |
| Emig clamp on the KX250 |
| Pro Circuit "Dog Bones" |
 |  |  |  |