Click on pictures to
see larger image
see larger image
Scotts Performance Steering Stabilizer
First off, I would like to express my huge pet peeve with people who refer to
these as "dampeners." Folks, read the Scotts web site. Does it say "dampener"
anywhere? Try damper. DAMPER!! Or, to avoid my complete and total wrath,
how about steering stabilizer?
By now I think most motorcycle-inclined individuals understand the concept of a
steering damper. These small but pricey gadgets prevent the handlebars from
being yanked out of your hands when you hit an unseen object. This smoothing
effect also helps reduce arm fatigue. Everything people say about the
advantages of these devices is right on. The damper is a valuable safety tool
and has improved my speed (or lack thereof) in rocky terrain.
Three basic steering damper designs are on the market today:
I chose the Scotts mainly because of its features and its ability to be used with
just about any upper triple clamp. However, up until I bought my 2009 KTM
250XC, the Scotts involved a fair amount of time and expense to make workable
with most dirt bikes. Most of this was due to the use of "standard" sized
handlebars that come with crossbars. The crossbar would usually get in the way
of the damper. Back when I bought my first damper, I had to replace the whole
upper triple clamp and switch to oversized bars (the kind with no crossbar) to
make the thing compatible. My first two KTM's and both KX250's required this.
Today there are better options that don't require a different triple clamp. Part of
the reason why Scotts-style dampers can be mounted more easily is that
manufacturers are finally selling bikes with oversized, crossbar-less
handlebars. For these bikes, a different handlebar clamp is about all that's
needed. For those still stuck with standard-sized stock handlebars, various
aftermarket companies now sell handlebar mounts that raise the handlebars
high enough that the damper can fit under the bars like this.
My toughest challenge with the Scotts dampers has been the damper towers.
The simplest form is the clamp-on version, which attaches itself to the steering
head. Prior to my 2009 KTM 250XC, I had very limited success in making them
work. The bolt-on tower for my 2003 KX250 required modifications to fit properly
and never did stay in place (I finally welded it to the frame). A bolt-on tower I
attempted to use on my KTM 300MXC interfered with the upper triple clamp
whenever I turned the handlebars. Weld-on towers are an option, but they must
be carefully centered and the steering head bearing kept cool during the welding
process. The Scotts instructions are very detailed, so as long as you follow
them and have average or better welding skills, it's not that hard.
Enduro Engineering came to the rescue with a clamp-on tower that actually
works pretty well on my 250XC. It did loosen once during a race, but a once-a-
year cleaning seems to be enough to keep the tower in place.
Emig Racing Upper Triple Clamp
I became a big fan of the Emig clamp for one simple reason: handguards can
be mounted directly to the clamp. Early in my off-roading years, I became
frustrated with handguards rotating around the handlebars. When I bought my
300MXC, I had to replace the upper triple clamp anyway (due to the Scotts
damper and upgrade to oversized handlebars), so I tried out an Emig upper
triple clamp with handguard mounts. This wasn't the first time I'd used
handguard clamps that mounted directly to the triple clamp. Aftermarket
companies had developed special mounts that could be used in conjunction
with the pinch bolts on the upper triple clamp. However, that only worked if the
pinch bolt heads were on the front or sides of the triple clamps. In 2002, the
KTM's used triple clamps with pinch bolts on the inside of the clamps. The
aftermarket clamp adapters would not work.
So became my introduction to the Emig triple clamp, a finely manufactured piece
of art. The clamp had a couple of different handlebar positions to choose from
and could accommodate the Scotts damper in any of those positions. One
downside to the handguard mounts of this type is that they must be twisted to a
shape that fits the mounting point on the clamp. Overall, the Emig clamps I
owned worked very well, and I never had to worry about the handguards rotating
around the handlebars.
Enduro Engineering Hand Guards
These guards are about as essential to woods riding as helmets. Enduro
Engineering has filled my needs with solid aluminum guards that do their job.
They come with various clamp options, including the style that is machined to
stay out of the way of the hydraulic lines of the clutch and front brake. I've lost
count of the number of pairs I've bought over the years.
Emig Racing Hand Guard Threaded Inserts
After many years of using Emig triple clamps with handguard mounts, I decided
to try something different with my 2009 KTM 250XC. Instead of replacing the
triple clamp, I bought a pair of threaded inserts. These allow the handguards to
be bolted right into the end of the bars, without the use of a taper-lock thingy. The
inserts tend to hold the handguards in place better and reduce rotation around
the handlebars. As of March 2011, I've put these to use for about a year and a
half and have had very little rotating of the handguards. Good little product.
Flatland Racing Radiator Guards
I installed these on my 2002 KTM 300MXC. Up to that point, I'd never punctured a
radiator, but I didn't like the radiators getting slightly out of shape after a few hard
crashes. The Flatland guards had both front and a certain amount of side
protection via a brace that ran from one radiator to the other (the brace passed
through an opening in the frame). Protection was substantial, but there were a
couple of tradeoffs. Most KTM off-roaders of that era were relocating the CDI box
under the tank by way of a relocator kit, but the Flatland brace got in the way of
the kit. However, there were other places to mount the CDI under the tank that
don't require the relocator kit at all, so it wasn't a major issue. Also, the radiators
had much less flex with the Flatland guards. When trail junk would grab at the
shrouds, they tended to crack because there was less "give."
Contrary to popular belief (o.k., my belief), the guards did not keep the radiators
from getting slightly out of shape from side impacts. The radiator shrouds still
bolted directly into the bottom part of the radiator, so a side impact still pushed in
the bolt and made the lower part of the radiator get a bit curvy. The Flatland
guards were more like catastrophic protection to keep you from getting stranded
on the trail. Even so, the guards were, at the time, some of the strongest made
and they were a good addition to the bike. After I bought these in 2002, the KTM
Hard Parts catalog, as well as Enduro Engineering, has offered a design that
braces the radiators from both front and side impacts.
Devol Engineering Radiator Guards
I put these on after destroying my right radiator on the 2003 KX250. I had been
using Works Connection braces, but they didn't offer the kind of protection I was
looking for (not that any brace would have saved my radiator). Like many guards,
the Works Connection version connected partly to the radiator itself, didn't offer
much side protection and had no frontal protection (they were cheap on eBay,
what can I say). The Devol's are not quite as sturdy as Flatland's but the key
difference is they mount entirely to the frame. It doesn't have the cross brace that
the Flatland guard has, but it does have a rear brace that replaces the smaller
stock brace. This brace keeps the radiator from being pushed backwards if it
takes a direct frontal assault. Installation was a bit easier than the Flatland
guards, mostly because I could use a 1/4" drive socket with long extensions to
get at the inside frame bolts. It's still a little tricky, but not bad once I figured out
the proper technique. Took me about 45 minutes to install, but if I had to do it
again, I could probably do it in about 15 minutes. The fit was very good and
quality was excellent (good instructions, too).
Enduro Engineering Radiator Guards
The holy grail of radiator guards was almost achieved with the Enduro
Engineering radiator guards that I mounted to my 2009 KTM 250XC. Almost. The
only thing missing is frontal protection, but on a positive note, these guards do
allow use of the stock plastic radiator louvers. A common complaint with the
Flatland and Devol guards is they tend to pack up with mud and cause
overheating. Evidently, Enduro Engineering felt this was too much of an issue to
risk, so they designed them the way they did. However, gone are the days of
bending radiators from falling over. The guards form a perfect rectangle around
with radiators, with all mounts directly to the frame. This does require removal of
the radiators to assemble the guards, but it's worth it. Totally.
Applied Racing Triple Clamps
Most people replace their triple clamps to switch to tapered handlebars or
because they look cool. I replaced mine because I bent the stock triple clamps
on my 1999 KTM 300EXC. Don't ask me how...I was unconscious at the time.
Applied was having an Internet special to help promote TAG handlebars (see
below), so it was a good time to try out their product. The finish and
workmanship were excellent. Installation wasn't too hard, but the bottom clamp
required a press (at least 12 tons) to remove the steering stem. The clamps did
not come with instructions, but it wasn't too hard to figure out. The handlebar
mounts had two positions, an improvement over the stock upper clamp that was
a one piece solid casting. One side benefit of the Applied clamps was that the
forks don't twist as much when I crashed, apparently because of a higher quality
surface area. Overall, the product was good and the price was reasonable.
Back in 1999, CNC machines started becoming a lot more affordable for small
machine shops, and aftermarket triple clamps popped up everywhere. Applied
was at the forefront, though, and they gained my business.
TAG Metals Tapered Handlebars
I bought a set of T2's in 1999 and have owned about 5 sets on 4 different bikes.
They are very similar to Answer's Pro-taper handlebars in both price and
functionality. I can describe their performance in one word: Strong. After many
hard crashes, I still haven't been able to bend them significantly. I typically cut
them down to about 30.5 inches for woods riding. In combination with the
Applied or Emig triple clamps and a Scotts steering damper, the TAG's have
worked very well.
Fredette Racing Products Chain Guide
This is an aluminum guide that worked very well on my earlier KTM's and my
2003 KX250. Over time the aluminum frame of the guides would bend and
cause the chain to rub against the edges of the guide. The inner part of the guide
was made of poly plastic, with chain replacement blocks available when the
originals wore out (the blocks could even be reversed to get some extra life).
One downside to these guides was that if the lower blocks wore too much, the
chain would dig into the bolts that hold the blocks in place. Overall, this was a
pretty good guide that resisted bending, even in the rocks.
TM Designworks Chain Guide
This chain guide was a replacement for the stock guide on my 2004 KX250. This
company was one of the first to finally figure out that plastic is just fine for chain
guides. That way, the guide could take any amount of trail abuse and still spring
back to its original position. Most parts were replaceable, for when the chain
eventually wore down the plastic. Good product that I used for several years with
no problems at all.
Acerbis Frame Guards
These are an economical way to keep your boots from wearing off all the paint
where they rub against the frame. The Acerbis guards actually give more
protection than the stock guards. These are plastic, but they hold up just as well
as the fancy, expensive metal guards and cost much less. They do have to be
removed to take out the swingarm bolt, but it's a small price to pay for protection.
Flatland Racing Odometer Spacer
Flatland is a great little company that puts out some very well-made products for
KTM, Gas Gas, and others. Back in the days of mechanical odometers, people
like me didn't see much use in having an odometer in a hare scramble, so
Flatland came up with a machined aluminum piece in place of the odometer
drive at the wheel. The spacer is billet aluminum and looks very cool. It did a
really good job of sealing the wheel bearing on that side (it was the only wheel
bearing I never had to replace in the 4 years I owned the 1999 300 EXC). I used
these on both the 300EXC and 300MXC.
Pro Circuit Pull Rods
This was a cheap eBay buy for the 2003 KX250, and glad it was because I never
noticed any difference whatsoever when I replaced the stock rear linkage pull
rods with the Pro Circuit pull rods. The Pro Circuit rods are supposed to be
longer...or maybe shorter, who knows. When Fred Andrews was riding for
Kawasaki, he used them and claimed they lowered the back end slightly to
improve stability, tracking, turning, whatever. They look kinda cool, though.
First off, I would like to express my huge pet peeve with people who refer to
these as "dampeners." Folks, read the Scotts web site. Does it say "dampener"
anywhere? Try damper. DAMPER!! Or, to avoid my complete and total wrath,
how about steering stabilizer?
By now I think most motorcycle-inclined individuals understand the concept of a
steering damper. These small but pricey gadgets prevent the handlebars from
being yanked out of your hands when you hit an unseen object. This smoothing
effect also helps reduce arm fatigue. Everything people say about the
advantages of these devices is right on. The damper is a valuable safety tool
and has improved my speed (or lack thereof) in rocky terrain.
Three basic steering damper designs are on the market today:
- Handlebar mounted. This includes the Scotts and GPR dampers, both of
which attach to the handlebar clamps. These offer on-the-fly adjustability,
but in certain unfortunate situations can sometimes imprint a damper
shape onto your chest protector or helmet. - Front mounted. W.E.R. was at one time the exclusive owner of this type of
fender-mounted damper design, but Scotts is now offering a special front
mount version. The advantage of a front mount is that it's unlikely your
body will ever make contact with the damper (if so, you've got worse
problems to deal with). Also, the center of your handlebars is less
cluttered without a damper located there. The downside is that
adjustments have to be made when you're off the bike, more or less. And
the way it sits on the front fender always makes me wonder how many of
those have been sheared off by trees or other close encounters. - Triple clamp integrated. RTT Motorsports developed this innovative
damper in the early 2000's that is contained within a specially designed
upper triple clamp. You pretty much have to see it to believe it. The
mounting location disadvantages of the Scotts, GPR, and W.E.R.
dampers are nonexistent. However, upper triple clamp choices are
limited to whatever RTT decides to provide.
I chose the Scotts mainly because of its features and its ability to be used with
just about any upper triple clamp. However, up until I bought my 2009 KTM
250XC, the Scotts involved a fair amount of time and expense to make workable
with most dirt bikes. Most of this was due to the use of "standard" sized
handlebars that come with crossbars. The crossbar would usually get in the way
of the damper. Back when I bought my first damper, I had to replace the whole
upper triple clamp and switch to oversized bars (the kind with no crossbar) to
make the thing compatible. My first two KTM's and both KX250's required this.
Today there are better options that don't require a different triple clamp. Part of
the reason why Scotts-style dampers can be mounted more easily is that
manufacturers are finally selling bikes with oversized, crossbar-less
handlebars. For these bikes, a different handlebar clamp is about all that's
needed. For those still stuck with standard-sized stock handlebars, various
aftermarket companies now sell handlebar mounts that raise the handlebars
high enough that the damper can fit under the bars like this.
My toughest challenge with the Scotts dampers has been the damper towers.
The simplest form is the clamp-on version, which attaches itself to the steering
head. Prior to my 2009 KTM 250XC, I had very limited success in making them
work. The bolt-on tower for my 2003 KX250 required modifications to fit properly
and never did stay in place (I finally welded it to the frame). A bolt-on tower I
attempted to use on my KTM 300MXC interfered with the upper triple clamp
whenever I turned the handlebars. Weld-on towers are an option, but they must
be carefully centered and the steering head bearing kept cool during the welding
process. The Scotts instructions are very detailed, so as long as you follow
them and have average or better welding skills, it's not that hard.
Enduro Engineering came to the rescue with a clamp-on tower that actually
works pretty well on my 250XC. It did loosen once during a race, but a once-a-
year cleaning seems to be enough to keep the tower in place.
Emig Racing Upper Triple Clamp
I became a big fan of the Emig clamp for one simple reason: handguards can
be mounted directly to the clamp. Early in my off-roading years, I became
frustrated with handguards rotating around the handlebars. When I bought my
300MXC, I had to replace the upper triple clamp anyway (due to the Scotts
damper and upgrade to oversized handlebars), so I tried out an Emig upper
triple clamp with handguard mounts. This wasn't the first time I'd used
handguard clamps that mounted directly to the triple clamp. Aftermarket
companies had developed special mounts that could be used in conjunction
with the pinch bolts on the upper triple clamp. However, that only worked if the
pinch bolt heads were on the front or sides of the triple clamps. In 2002, the
KTM's used triple clamps with pinch bolts on the inside of the clamps. The
aftermarket clamp adapters would not work.
So became my introduction to the Emig triple clamp, a finely manufactured piece
of art. The clamp had a couple of different handlebar positions to choose from
and could accommodate the Scotts damper in any of those positions. One
downside to the handguard mounts of this type is that they must be twisted to a
shape that fits the mounting point on the clamp. Overall, the Emig clamps I
owned worked very well, and I never had to worry about the handguards rotating
around the handlebars.
Enduro Engineering Hand Guards
These guards are about as essential to woods riding as helmets. Enduro
Engineering has filled my needs with solid aluminum guards that do their job.
They come with various clamp options, including the style that is machined to
stay out of the way of the hydraulic lines of the clutch and front brake. I've lost
count of the number of pairs I've bought over the years.
Emig Racing Hand Guard Threaded Inserts
After many years of using Emig triple clamps with handguard mounts, I decided
to try something different with my 2009 KTM 250XC. Instead of replacing the
triple clamp, I bought a pair of threaded inserts. These allow the handguards to
be bolted right into the end of the bars, without the use of a taper-lock thingy. The
inserts tend to hold the handguards in place better and reduce rotation around
the handlebars. As of March 2011, I've put these to use for about a year and a
half and have had very little rotating of the handguards. Good little product.
Flatland Racing Radiator Guards
I installed these on my 2002 KTM 300MXC. Up to that point, I'd never punctured a
radiator, but I didn't like the radiators getting slightly out of shape after a few hard
crashes. The Flatland guards had both front and a certain amount of side
protection via a brace that ran from one radiator to the other (the brace passed
through an opening in the frame). Protection was substantial, but there were a
couple of tradeoffs. Most KTM off-roaders of that era were relocating the CDI box
under the tank by way of a relocator kit, but the Flatland brace got in the way of
the kit. However, there were other places to mount the CDI under the tank that
don't require the relocator kit at all, so it wasn't a major issue. Also, the radiators
had much less flex with the Flatland guards. When trail junk would grab at the
shrouds, they tended to crack because there was less "give."
Contrary to popular belief (o.k., my belief), the guards did not keep the radiators
from getting slightly out of shape from side impacts. The radiator shrouds still
bolted directly into the bottom part of the radiator, so a side impact still pushed in
the bolt and made the lower part of the radiator get a bit curvy. The Flatland
guards were more like catastrophic protection to keep you from getting stranded
on the trail. Even so, the guards were, at the time, some of the strongest made
and they were a good addition to the bike. After I bought these in 2002, the KTM
Hard Parts catalog, as well as Enduro Engineering, has offered a design that
braces the radiators from both front and side impacts.
Devol Engineering Radiator Guards
I put these on after destroying my right radiator on the 2003 KX250. I had been
using Works Connection braces, but they didn't offer the kind of protection I was
looking for (not that any brace would have saved my radiator). Like many guards,
the Works Connection version connected partly to the radiator itself, didn't offer
much side protection and had no frontal protection (they were cheap on eBay,
what can I say). The Devol's are not quite as sturdy as Flatland's but the key
difference is they mount entirely to the frame. It doesn't have the cross brace that
the Flatland guard has, but it does have a rear brace that replaces the smaller
stock brace. This brace keeps the radiator from being pushed backwards if it
takes a direct frontal assault. Installation was a bit easier than the Flatland
guards, mostly because I could use a 1/4" drive socket with long extensions to
get at the inside frame bolts. It's still a little tricky, but not bad once I figured out
the proper technique. Took me about 45 minutes to install, but if I had to do it
again, I could probably do it in about 15 minutes. The fit was very good and
quality was excellent (good instructions, too).
Enduro Engineering Radiator Guards
The holy grail of radiator guards was almost achieved with the Enduro
Engineering radiator guards that I mounted to my 2009 KTM 250XC. Almost. The
only thing missing is frontal protection, but on a positive note, these guards do
allow use of the stock plastic radiator louvers. A common complaint with the
Flatland and Devol guards is they tend to pack up with mud and cause
overheating. Evidently, Enduro Engineering felt this was too much of an issue to
risk, so they designed them the way they did. However, gone are the days of
bending radiators from falling over. The guards form a perfect rectangle around
with radiators, with all mounts directly to the frame. This does require removal of
the radiators to assemble the guards, but it's worth it. Totally.
Applied Racing Triple Clamps
Most people replace their triple clamps to switch to tapered handlebars or
because they look cool. I replaced mine because I bent the stock triple clamps
on my 1999 KTM 300EXC. Don't ask me how...I was unconscious at the time.
Applied was having an Internet special to help promote TAG handlebars (see
below), so it was a good time to try out their product. The finish and
workmanship were excellent. Installation wasn't too hard, but the bottom clamp
required a press (at least 12 tons) to remove the steering stem. The clamps did
not come with instructions, but it wasn't too hard to figure out. The handlebar
mounts had two positions, an improvement over the stock upper clamp that was
a one piece solid casting. One side benefit of the Applied clamps was that the
forks don't twist as much when I crashed, apparently because of a higher quality
surface area. Overall, the product was good and the price was reasonable.
Back in 1999, CNC machines started becoming a lot more affordable for small
machine shops, and aftermarket triple clamps popped up everywhere. Applied
was at the forefront, though, and they gained my business.
TAG Metals Tapered Handlebars
I bought a set of T2's in 1999 and have owned about 5 sets on 4 different bikes.
They are very similar to Answer's Pro-taper handlebars in both price and
functionality. I can describe their performance in one word: Strong. After many
hard crashes, I still haven't been able to bend them significantly. I typically cut
them down to about 30.5 inches for woods riding. In combination with the
Applied or Emig triple clamps and a Scotts steering damper, the TAG's have
worked very well.
Fredette Racing Products Chain Guide
This is an aluminum guide that worked very well on my earlier KTM's and my
2003 KX250. Over time the aluminum frame of the guides would bend and
cause the chain to rub against the edges of the guide. The inner part of the guide
was made of poly plastic, with chain replacement blocks available when the
originals wore out (the blocks could even be reversed to get some extra life).
One downside to these guides was that if the lower blocks wore too much, the
chain would dig into the bolts that hold the blocks in place. Overall, this was a
pretty good guide that resisted bending, even in the rocks.
TM Designworks Chain Guide
This chain guide was a replacement for the stock guide on my 2004 KX250. This
company was one of the first to finally figure out that plastic is just fine for chain
guides. That way, the guide could take any amount of trail abuse and still spring
back to its original position. Most parts were replaceable, for when the chain
eventually wore down the plastic. Good product that I used for several years with
no problems at all.
Acerbis Frame Guards
These are an economical way to keep your boots from wearing off all the paint
where they rub against the frame. The Acerbis guards actually give more
protection than the stock guards. These are plastic, but they hold up just as well
as the fancy, expensive metal guards and cost much less. They do have to be
removed to take out the swingarm bolt, but it's a small price to pay for protection.
Flatland Racing Odometer Spacer
Flatland is a great little company that puts out some very well-made products for
KTM, Gas Gas, and others. Back in the days of mechanical odometers, people
like me didn't see much use in having an odometer in a hare scramble, so
Flatland came up with a machined aluminum piece in place of the odometer
drive at the wheel. The spacer is billet aluminum and looks very cool. It did a
really good job of sealing the wheel bearing on that side (it was the only wheel
bearing I never had to replace in the 4 years I owned the 1999 300 EXC). I used
these on both the 300EXC and 300MXC.
Pro Circuit Pull Rods
This was a cheap eBay buy for the 2003 KX250, and glad it was because I never
noticed any difference whatsoever when I replaced the stock rear linkage pull
rods with the Pro Circuit pull rods. The Pro Circuit rods are supposed to be
longer...or maybe shorter, who knows. When Fred Andrews was riding for
Kawasaki, he used them and claimed they lowered the back end slightly to
improve stability, tracking, turning, whatever. They look kinda cool, though.
| Scotts damper with Emig clamp on the KX250 |
| Scotts damper and Emig clamp on the 300MXC |
| Hardware |
| Threaded insert for bolting hand guards directly to the bars |
| Finally - indisputable proof that radiator guards work (click on picture for details) |
| Fredette chain guide on the 300MXC |
| Pro Circuit "Dog Bones" |
| Product Reviews |
 |  |  |
